My finger follows the Northlands Twin Coast Discovery route
on the map. It’s been fun planning this trip to the ‘far north’ and now, behind the wheel of
my rental, I’m off - first stop the
coastal village of Tutukaka.
Waking to sunrise it’s not long before I’m checking into A Perfect Day get on their boat with a snorkel,
fins and wetsuit ready to visit the world famous marine sanctuary, Poor Nights
Island.
Once there the views above and below the water are
breathtaking. Schools of fish divide as
they swim past me, while others carry on feeding on the food they have trapped
up against the islands volcanic cliffs which continue straight down to the
floor of the Pacific Ocean.
After exploring the world’s largest and beautiful sea-cave,
Riko Riko and other islands which are part of the reserve and watching the
gannets diving into the sea helped make this, for me, a ‘perfect day’ just as
the company is called: over the next two weeks water and history feature high
on my to-do list.
I visit the birthplace of New Zealand – the Waitangi Treaty
Grounds. It’s not only historic and beautiful but also set in lush native bush
and has guided tours and cultural performances night and day
Soaring skywards with
the Flying Kiwi’s parasail, New
Zealand’s’ highest, has my adrenaline flowing. The take-off and landing was
smooth and gentle and the views over the Bay of Islands was great despite my
fear of heights and that I was flying single, not tandem or triple.
Still in the bay, I went dolphin watching but saw a pod of
Orca, killer whales, feeding - no wonder the dolphins where hiding. However, it
seems their genetic warning system about this top-of-the-food-chain mammal, has
not caught up with the fact that, in New Zealand, orcas prefer sting-rays.
This was the first area settled by Europeans from the end of
the 18th century and The Duke of
Marlborough in Russell is the centre of this history.
My days fly and with a I-must-come-back-and-do list, I set
my GPS for Kerikeri where I stay in eco-cottages nestled in the award-winning Wharepuke Subtropical Gardens and later
arrive at Cape Reinga. It’s called Te Rerenga Wairua in Maori, this is a
special place, culturally and ecologically, and many visitors from around the
world reduce their carbon footprint by planting a native tree there.
Back down the twin-coast highway my next stop was at a
Hokianga hotel right on the waterfront and within sight of the heads that the
great Polynesian explorer, Kupe, sailed through many generations ago. If the
Bay of Islands is the cradle of Pakeha history, this whole area is the cradle
of Maori history.
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| A young girl joins her mum and aunties on the stage |
Two of the activities here celebrate both nature and Maori
culture. Footprints Twilight Encounter was
very special and even Lonely Planet rated it highly (Code Green Experience of a
Lifetime). One evening I joined one of Kupe’s
descendants, and six other travellers, on a guided walk to the two largest
kauri trees in the world. Being in the forest at night was very special for sounds
and sights.
The next day another of Kupe's descendants stood with me on
top of the giant sand dunes on the opposite side of the Hokianga Harbour
regaling me with stories of the past with its intrigues, wars, deception and
fun – even better, only three people fit in the dune buggy so it’s an exclusive
trip!
Further south on State Highway 12 is the Kauri Museum. This had been given such great press by
travellers I’d met along the way that it had a lot to live up to. One of the
amazing things I find about this world-class, award winning, museum is that it
is administered by a charitable trust. Showcasing the very best of the Kauri
Coast, it not only has amazing pieces of Kauri gum arts and crafts but also
magnificent antique furniture and working machinery - whatever your interests,
social history, art, nature, science, furniture, jewellery, machinery, culture,
the Kauri Museum and its history of the beautiful golden amber gum will keep
you occupied for hours. Tell them I sent you!
For more stories about New Zealand, and the rest of the
world follow travel my blog as well as this one!
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| Blue skies, blue sea, great views |
